Dining review: Marta Fine Food & Spirits
Baltimore, MD
Last Saturday was a cool and sunny spring evening — the kind of night that wets our senses with the anticipation of warmer days. The breezy air wrapped us with flirtation while the teasing sun danced on our skin. It was the perfect night for romance and art.
For date night, M and I attended the opening reception of Jerrell Gibb’s first solo exhibit, “Fearfully and Wonderfully Made” at Galerie Myrtis. Mr. Gibb’s work entered my sphere on a trip when M and I were in the early days of our romance. I stopped to admire oil paintings lining the terminal’s tunnel as we moved through BWI airport. The artist was Mr. Gibbs. I was hooked. In the years since, I followed his career and most recently acquired a limited edition print to add to our home collection.
We were eager to see what new work Mr. Gibbs was sharing with the world when we learned of the exhibit. “Fearfully and Wonderfully Made” is an examination of the limitations ballet tries to put on people in Black bodies, especially young women. As a former ballerina, I appreciated Mr. Gibb’s exigency coming through the work. His daughter, also a trained dancer, serves as the exhibit’s muse. The show is on display at the gallery until May 3. I highly recommend visiting.
Following our time at the reception, we headed to the charming Butchers Hill area for dinner at Marta Fine Food & Spirits. Marta Fine Food & Spirits has been on our Baltimore Hit List of restaurants for some time. The establishment is known for its authentic take on Italian classics and bold approach to mixology.
When we arrived, it felt like we were back in Park Slope, Brooklyn. The restaurant is a two-story stacked brick building with an unassuming exterior. Once we stepped inside, we were blown away by the beauty and intimacy of the interior. The restaurant is small — much smaller than one would assume from its exterior appearance — but it packs a punch. Baroque wallpaper covered the walls, and the furniture, though simple, was well appointed.
The lighting was dimmed over the main dining room bustled that with couples curled up in booth corners noshing on appetizers. Girlfriends sipped cocktails and caught up on their lasting musings. M and I took to the bar to make our experience a progressive night*.
Our first impression was a good one. The spirits and libations were as inventive as we heard, and though I didn’t order one of the cocktails on the menu, the mixology team didn’t hesitate to make a delicious French 75 for me.
Our first course was half a dozen oysters topped with pink pepper granita and chive. They had the ideal balance of salinity and sweetness.
Once we made it to our table, we went for the classics: a bowl of meatballs to share; I decided on the ziti bolognese, and M opted for the tagliatelle tartufo. Each bite of our meals reminded us of our time in Rome when we learned that Italian dishes didn’t need much to be decadent. The pasta was perfectly al dente and the bolognese creamy without losing its bite.
Overall, we had a wonderful night at Marta Fine Food & Spirits. If you’re looking for a great option for a date, a solo night out, or a cool spot on the block to catch up with friends, this is the place for you. We noticed the restaurant is planning to accommodate al fresco dining once the water warms. Prepare for neroli spritzes on the patio.
Price: $$$
Location and parking: Convenient
Best dish: Though I was partial to the ziti bolognese, the real star of the show is the linguini vongole.
Do: Try something from every section of the menu.
Don’t: Skip the cheesecake.
*A progressive night, as coined by Chef José Andrés
